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Today: September 11, 2026
September 11, 2026
1 min read

How a month-long competitive food tour is rewriting the story of Rio’s favelas

‘The doors that aren’t open to us in the rest of the city, we open for ourselves here,’ Maria Cristina de Sales says

Even at the age of nine, Maria Cristina de Sales knew exactly when to ask her mother’s colleagues at the slaughterhouse for a piece of the pig they were butchering: when they got close to the pork leg, her favourite part.

When she grew up, Sales followed the path of many others from Brazil’s deprived north-east and moved south in search of better work opportunities. She arrived in Rio de Janeiro and, unable to afford a home in tourist-heavy south zone, moved to a favela further north.

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